More venues for watching the World Cup...with your dog

Games are projected onto the wall of the bar in the evenings

Trying to watch the games while out and about in Larnaca with my large dog has been a challenge. We have found a couple of favourites, and it has motivated me to try out a few different places that I had noticed but hadn't got around to. We have also been turned away from quite a few!


While trying to catch Germany vs Portugal last week, the bar I had planned to go to was closed, the game begun, we were turned away from several places, and I was feeling hot and bothered trying to watch on a distant screen from outside a popular coffee shop... when I heard the commentary from the neighbouring rooftop cafe bar Le Jardin, and decided to give it a go.

Le Jardin Cafe Bar

Le Jardin Cafe Bar is on Grigori Afxentiou Street, which ends at Larnaca Police Station, opposite from the Easy Hotel.


I had noticed this bar on previous trips to town, and thought it looked nice from the outside, but had not expected them to accept dogs and therefore put off giving it a go.


Le Jardin is beautifully decorated with lots of plants, comfortable sofas, inviting lighting. Everyone in there was immediately very friendly and gave Sage a lot of attention. There was another group already there with their dog, a friendly Pomeranian who seemed like quite a regular there.

The match was showing in the early evening, and as it started to get dark I was half distracted from the tvs by the hundreds of swallows diving around the skies around the rooftop bar, as well as by the changing colours from the setting sun. Despite being situated on a main, busy road, as soon as you climb the stairs up to the bar, it is very easy to forget you in the middle of town.

From Sage's point of view, it was nice to get so much attention, but there wasn't much space for her to stretch out as the bar is quite small and narrow. Especially once it got dark, I was quite anxious that someone would step on her as I couldn't really find a corner to hide her away.


From the football point of view, this was a lovely place to watch the game. There were 2 tv screens in the early evening, and as it got dark they projected the screen onto the white wall at one end of the bar so it was even easier to get a good view.

The bar serves cocktails and bottles of beer, as well as sandwiches and wraps. I paid a fairly standard €3 for a coffee.

On their FB page you can find information on the upcoming games, as well as music events and info on the menu:

https://www.facebook.com/lejardinlarnaka

Le Jardin is a beautifully decorated bar, with a lovely relaxed atmosphere. Simply because of its size and lay out, I might advise taking a large dog somewhere where there is a bit more space, although it's great to have more options, particularly when they are as nice as this one. 

Watch the World Cup... with your dog

Watching Mexico vs Cameroon at The Depot

Recently my criteria for choosing a bar to go to in Cyprus just became a little bit harder. Sage just loves football, so at the moment I'm looking for places that not only accept pets, but that are also showing the World Cup. I'm on the look out for dog-friendly bars with garden or terrace areas, and screens outside. Extra points goes to bars with good cheap food, friendly service, and wide range of drinks, of course.

The Depot

We have tried out a couple in the last few days, and our current favourite is The Depot, which is on the beach road just beyond the Fortress at Finikoudes (in the direction of Macenzie Beach). This bar/grill is in a lovely location, especially now work has finished on the walkway by the sea here. If you are not a football fan, you could happily spend your time looking out over the water, and people watching. This 'promenade' was also quite good for a halftime walk with Sage!

Walkway by the sea beyond the Fortress at Finikoudes

Staff at The Depot were very friendly to us, petting Sage, and offering to bring her water. There was plenty of space for Sage to sit out of the way of the other customers, while we still had a good view of the (3!!!) large screens showing the World Cup. 

Drinks were fairly cheap here, about 2.5€ for a large Carlsberg/Keo beer, 2-3€ for a coffee. We also ordered some amazing homemade chips and grilled vegetable wrap, and both dishes cost under 5€.

Terrace area of The Depot

Attention to detail is visible in the decoration both inside and out at The Depot. I loved the use of the breeze blocks from the wall as plant pots and the strange lamps from recycled wine bottles. The large central bar inside also fits well with the style and shape of the building.

The Depot in the evening

So, whether or not you want to see the games, I recommend this bar for food or drinks, with your dog. 

Find them on FB here

Kamares to the Aliki... with your dog

18th Century Ottoman Aqueduct (the so-called Kamares or Arches)

After almost a year of driving by the impressive Kamares Aqueduct, and talking about exploring the paths that begin from here, we finally stopped there on a cold Sunday, a few weeks back. The Aqueduct was built during the 18th Century, under one of the Ottoman governors of Cyprus - Abou Bekir Pasha - to bring water from the area of the Tremithos-Kiti dam, to Larnaca (or Kition as it was then called). 

Path from Kamares towards the Aliki lake

This water system ran for 15km, 8 of which was along underground channels, 7km along substructions and arcades (such as the Kamares). 3 series of arches remain from this aqueduct; those pictured here are just south of the Kamares neighbourhood of Larnaca. I found this information on the Kamares very useful.. 


From this point you can either follow the path at the north end of the arches, which leads to the Hala Sultan Teke mosque and on to Larnaca Airport, or take the path at the southern end, which ends at a small parking area near the Patticheio park.

On this particular Sunday we chose the path that leads to Patticheio. It is a 4km route (so 8km if you don't have somebody to collect you at the other end).

There were a few people out and about, some with children, so we had to keep grabbing hold of Sage and holding her out of the way. But there is plenty of space along the way for throwing sticks, watching your dog disappear off into muddy rivers and over-your-head high grasses.

Like almost all dogs, Sage always enjoys going somewhere new, discovering all the unfamiliar smells of an area. She seemed to really enjoy this walk, running off either side of the path to see what was around. As this is quite a common spot for dog walkers, I suppose there are lots of smells to interest a dog...

The length of the walk was just about right for Sage too, although during the summer months we all would have suffered a bit as there is very little shade until you reach the area near Patticheio.

Do carry your own water if you're walking here in summer.

The path has distance markers, which is useful for runners too.

After 2-3km passing through marshlands around the edge of the lake, you reach the lake proper (on your right), and you can spot the Hala Sultan Teke in the distance on the other side.  This part of the path gets more shaded, with woodland areas. There is even a hide for bird watching (the famous flamingos if you're lucky enough to be there in winter/spring).

After 4 kms, you reach a part of the lake that has information boards about the historical salt industry that used to flourish in the area. There is a parking area, sometimes a van to buy drinks, bins for dog mess etc. We met a few other dog walkers around this point, and it seems quite a popular evening spot for dog walks. 

View of Hala Sultan from the other side of the Aliki

Dog bins and bags at the parking area at the end of the path

Family portrait

Picnic, walk or cycle in Oroklini Hills... with your dog

Section of the E4 path that runs through Oroklini Hills

This is a small secret of the Larnaca district, which I learned about while interviewing for Dog of the Month. Pass through the village of Oroklini until you reach a turn off which winds it's way uphill, and signs for the Profitis Ilias church. At the top of this road you will find parking spaces, a picnic area, special dog poo bins (with bags provided!), and great views out over Oroklini down to the coast.

Picnic area at Oroklini Hills

From this point you can follow several pathways and explore on foot or bike. One path leads round to the church of Profit Ilias (Elijah). A small water tap at the side of this church has been quite useful in the past - although I'm not sure that is really encouraged..

In the other direction you pass small woodland areas with pine trees. After the woods the path continues around through fields and you can circle round to the look out point at the highest of the hills.

Along these paths we've seen professional cyclists training for competition, as well as others just enjoying some off-road terrain on their bikes. I haven't seen people cycling with their dogs here yet...

The views from these hills are not the spectacular mountain views of the Troodos, nor the wild natural beauty of Cape Gkreko, but they are quite lovely in their own gentle way. We were last here in late summer/early autumn, when Cyprus is at its barest and most arid. The fields were parched white earth and from above on the hills they appear almost desert-like. In some areas, dried thistles and shrubs were the only plant life remaining.

I do prefer Cyprus in the Spring, after the winter has refreshed the fields and suddenly everywhere you look are grasses and wild flowers. But there is beauty in the dry, empty landscapes too, I think.

We met a few other dog walkers at the hills, and felt comfortable to let Sage run around off her leash, except in the picnic area as she tends to get a bit too interested in other peoples' sandwiches.

Warning - keep in mind that people use some of these fields for hunting during hunting season (autumn/winter). Keep your dog close by or on the leash if you hear or see hunters in the area. 

Spend a day around Kalavasos Dam...with your dog

Kalavasos dam

This is one of my favourite walks so far in Cyprus. The main reason I liked this area so much is because there are no organised, sign-posted routes, just fields and hills and small pathways stretching as far as the foothills of the Troodos mountains in the distance. It has a very wild, unexplored feeling - which is quite hard to find in Cyprus.

We came here sometime in November and the weather was glorious. It was warm enough to hike just wearing a t-shirt, but no so hot that you have to carry gallons of water with you. There was very little shade, so this is not a walk to do in high summer.

We left the car just next to the dam, and headed off on what seemed, at first sight, to be a path (round to the left of the reservoir if you're facing the water from the dam).


The path soon ended, and we found ourselves sliding down loose scree towards the water - where the elusive path seemed to continue on its way.


In fact, the path did continue, but only as far as the next small outcrop, then again we had to go cross country to continue round. On each of these 'outcrops', which formed little man-made beaches all the way around the reservoir, people had set up fishing lines and were enjoying a Sunday by the dam fishing, having picnics, just sitting and  chatting with friends. I noticed that quite a few of them had driven to the spot where they were fishing, but I didn't see any access and don't know how they got there!

We walked for quite a while, scrambling up and down the banks, trying to circumnavigate the reservoir. We got about halfway. After edging our way round a particularly narrow path, over loose stones and scree, through brambles and spiky plants, we saw that the 'path' we were heading for was not a path. I'm sure we could have found a way to continue round, but we took another direction and headed off towards the hills trying to circle our way back towards the dam.


After a short while walking, we found ourselves on a small but asphalted road, near an army base. Following this road led us eventually back down to the dam (and our car).

So, I can't really recommend a particular route, but I do recommend this area for a hike for anyone keen on hiking and exploring. You should be prepared for a bit of scrambling (good shoes or hiking boots are a must) and carry water with you.


Alternatively, bring a cooler with beers (and a fishing line if you've got a license) and enjoy some time away from the noise and bustle of the towns and beaches.


This is a lovely place to walk with your dog, as there are few people around and plenty of space for everybody. There are no roads, so you don't have to worry about traffic. There are no organised picnic areas or parks with sign-posts forbidding dogs. Just a big wild space for running around.

A warning -  As we were scuttling around on non-existant paths and pushing our way through overgrown terrain, I did have a minor panic about snakes. There is only one snake in Cyprus that is a threat to humans, but several that could cause a nasty bite to a curious dog. It's a good idea to be aware of the possible dangers at all times of the year, but during their mating season (April-June in Cyprus) you should be particularly vigilant. I usually try to make noise and cause a disturbance when passing through undergrowth (or hit a stick on the ground when walking). I also keep Sage on her leash if we are walking through any area where I can't see all the terrain, or if I feel like she might stick her nose into a bush or snake-like home.

I wrote about the potential dangers to your dog in Cyprus, including snakes, in a previous post: http://bit.ly/1jtmd2z

I have also written a bit about this general area in a previous post, focusing more on the history and archaeological survey that was carried out in this area when the dam was constructed: http://bit.ly/MnSKLg

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Discover Neolithic Cyprus...with your dog

Ok, ok, I admit it, the Neolithic site of Choirokoitia is extremely important, interesting and well-preserved... but it's not a particularly good place to visit with your dog. For starters, obviously dogs are not permitted inside the site, and you can't see very much from outside of the fence. Secondly, you lose a large part of the experience if you don't go in and wander around the replica round houses, or climb the steep steps and see the view from the top of the site. Thirdly, the area around the site is not particularly interesting for dogs - a few rather soulless cafes and a car park.....

But never mind all that. You should go anyway, even if it means taking turns to wait outside with the dog while the rest of your party get to enjoy the site.

View of Choirokoitia from outside the fence

The site is located near the new highway between Larnaca and Lemesos, in the foothills of the Troodos mountain range.

It was first excavated by Dikaios, for the Dept. of Antiquities of Cyprus, from the mid 1930s. A team from the French Centre National de Recherche Scientifique took over in '76, led by Le Brun. The site has been on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List since the late '90s.


The settlement at Choirokoitia was founded during the 7th Millennium BC and provides invaluable information about some of the earliest sedentary communities in Cyprus. The inhabitants of Choirokoitia (and their contemporaries) used tools made of flint and stone, rather than metal. They did not fire pottery, but carved stone such as diabase to make vessels.

As at Lempa (see previous post), archaeologists have constructed replicas at one end of the site. Unlike those at Lempa, however, these are not used for ongoing experimental archaeology, but rather to enhance the visitors' experience of the site.

Modern replicas of the Neolithic buildings at Choirokoitia

Continuing around the site, the foundations of a large number of round stone buildings, of varying sizes, are situated one above the other up the hill.  Of particular interest is the intricate entranceway, which would have forced visitors to follow a tight passage that zig-zags, before allowing them to enter - thereby giving residents time and opportunity to defend themselves.

Choirokoitia was abandoned c.5200 BC, then there seems to have been a considerable gap in the archaeological record in Cyprus, before we see the emergence of a new phase, the Ceramic Neolithic.

View of replicas from outside the fence

I have been to this site several times, but I could only find photos of the last time I was there, when I actually waited outside with Sage! I'll upload some more from inside the site as soon as possible.


So, on the positive side, if you are forced to wait outside, there are trees for shade, and cafes to buy a drink. While we were waiting, I took Sage for a little exploration around the area, and discovered the dry river bed and nearby fields. It's not the best walk, but it's a good place to have a rest stop on the road between Larnaca-Lemesos, to let your dog have a run around.

Ticket office and car park area

Dry river bed below site

Check the page of the Department of Antiquities of Cyprus for more information about this site.

Flamingo watching... with your dog

When most people think of Cyprus, they think of beaches and blue sea, perhaps night life, maybe history... I think very few people would associate Cyprus with flamingos. Yet every year, as the winter rains re-fill the salt lakes, hundreds of Greater Flamingos arrive and feed in the lakes. They can be found in the salt lakes near Larnaca (Aliki) and Lemesos (Akrotiri), as well as in the wetlands and smaller lakes around the island, such as Oroklini and the area by Kalavassos. They arrive in about December and stay until around March.   

Flamingos in Oroklini Lake

A few flamingo facts:

• Flamingos are a white colour when born. The pink colouring comes from the high quantities of beta carotene in their diet. The less healthy birds will retain a whiter-brown colour
• Greater flamingos feed on insects, algae, worms and vegetation
• They have a lifespan of up to 40 years
• Greater flamingos are monogamous
• They have a wing span of up to 1.7m

You can find more info here: http://www.theanimalfiles.com/birds/flamingos/greater_flamingo.html

Flamingos on the Aliki, Larnaca

I love going to see these birds. Sometimes you can just make them out from a distance, out over the Salt Lake at Larnaca. Other times there seems to be hundreds of them spread out in small groups. At the small nature reserve on the road to Oroklini from the Dhekelia Road, there is a small lake by the road where you get a great view of the birds. Here you see flamingos mixing with much less 'exotic' ducks as well as other migratory water birds. 

View of Hala Sultan Teke, Aliki

This post doesn't have much to do with my dog, actually. But we do spend a lot of time by the lake in Larnaca together, with and without flamingos. I'm not sure what she makes of them - you can see in the video that she seems interested, but not too bothered. Fortunately she hasn't tried to chase them....

The number of flamingos wintering in Cyprus changes each year, depending on rainfall and how much water is in the lakes and wetlands. A Cypriot friend of ours said that this year the numbers seem to be particularly low, and other years he remembers the lake turning pink from the thousands of flamingo visitors. 

As well as problems caused by a lack of rain, flamingos and other migratory water birds are suffering from the destruction of their natural habitat (the wetland areas) through over-development. On this very built up island, preserving the small areas of wildlife that remain is extremely important.

Another major concern is the close proximity of Larnaca airport to the Aliki, their favourite of the feeding grounds in Cyprus. I have read that there are literally hundreds of collisions every year between the birds and low flying aircraft.

I really hope that this amazing wildlife is given the support and conditions needed to enjoy their holidays in Cyprus too.

For more information check out this useful article from 2012:
http://www.the-real-cyprus.com/cyprus-flamingo.html

More wintery walks... with your dog

It would be irresponsible of me to recommend dog owners take their dogs to Finikoudes (Palm Beach) in Larnaca, as there as signposts clearly forbidding dogs on this beach (and almost every beach in Cyprus).
But, when I see the beach looking like this.....

Finikoudes Beach in January

... I feel I can let my girl have a run around without bothering anyone

Do be careful walking your dogs here, I have heard of outrageous fines for having dogs on the beach in Cyprus. Still, from November until about April, once all the sun loungers have been collected up, the umbrellas packed away, the kiosks have been locked down, then the beach is perfect for chasing after tennis balls and running around on the sand!

If there are too many people around - too many interesting new smells and sounds - I  can't relax and enjoy our walk, so I avoided this beach with Sage during the summer.  Although I did see quite a few dog walkers here even in June-July.  Just now, in January-February however, it's great for a lunchtime run around. The path has been extended beyond the fortress towards Mackenzie Beach now, meaning you could do a long walk along the coast, all the way from Larnaca marina to Mackenzie.

Path extended beyond the Fortress around to
Mackenzie Beach

If you're looking for somewhere to stop for a warming drink around the seafront here, we have been welcomed by several of the bar owners in this area (see previous post, drinking in Larnaca: http://bit.ly/1hVWPBg)

One of our favourites, however, at least for this time of year, is the Finis Beach Bar. Again, I avoid this place in summer with Sage, as it is located right on the sand. During winter though, it's great to walk down for a drink at the beach bar (open until about 5-6 in the evening) and watch the sea. Staff have always been super friendly to us and Sage, even bringing her water (unasked for) last time, and stopping to pet her.

It can get a bit cold at the Beach Bar, we have always sat outside when we are there with Sage, but you can buy a range of teas, coffees, or hot chocolate to warm you on the inside.