Cool off in the Troodos Mountains... with your dog

Neither me nor my dog deal very well with the heat. We both spend our days seeking out shady spots to hide in and trying to expend as little energy as possible. Sage, with her medium length black fur coat, really suffers during hot days. So, heading up to the cooler, shady Troodos mountains is a great way to pass the hottest days. 

At the Caledonian Waterfalls (June 2014)

We've spent a lot of time in this area, hiking the nature trails, eating and drinking in the small villages, staying in some of the lovely Agrotourism accommodation available there. It always feels much cooler there (so much so that we froze up there in April last year while it was almost beach weather in the coastal areas), and we have even managed to hike some of the more covered, woodland trails in mid summer. 

Our most recent visit was last weekend. We drove as far as the lovely, shady Platres, and spent some time exploring the village. A friend of mine was visiting, so we took her to see the Caledonian Waterfalls (that I've written about in a previous post, here). Also in this are are the Milomeris Waterfalls, which are at the end of a short walk through woodland, although these falls attract more visitors so a bit less chance to let your dog run around freely, see my review here. 

Sage posing at Milomeris Waterfalls

Sage posing at Caledonian Waterfalls

This was the first time in several days that I had seen Sage really running around, frollicking even, clearly loving the icy water and shady paths. There were quite a few visitors there, some with their dogs too, including a family who had brought their dog on holiday with them from Russia! Most people kept their dogs on their leads. I find this really tough as there are relatively few places I can let Sage really run at her own speed, to go and sniff whatever she likes, to jump in the water freely - I don't want to ruin her fun. However, I suppose as it gets to summer time and the trails are busier with families and holiday-makers, dog owners may have to have this in mind. 

I have read reviews saying that there was little or no water in the Falls during the summer. These waterfalls are not spectacular and visitors should not expect Niagra Falls here, but the enjoyment comes from following the lovely woodland paths, looking at unusual and endemic species of plant life, crossing the stream on small rickety bridges, enjoying the cooler mountain air and the contrast to the wildlife and climate of the rest of the island. 

Antonis Cafe, Pano Platres

At Antonis Restaurant, Platres

After a long walk (and bit of a swim for some of us) we went to have lunch in Pano Platres. I am sure many of these places would have accepted dogs in the outdoors areas of the cafes/restaurants, but we chose somewhere that looked big with plenty of space to sit with Sage out of the way of other customers. This was Antonis Cafe, on the main road through Pano Platres just by the municipal parking and tourist information area.

At Antonis Cafe, Platres

The staff were very friendly and didn't have any problem with Sage being there. They made an effort to produce a vegetarian option for us, although I think the usual menu is sandwiches/burgers/snacks. A very large fresh salad, halloumi, bread, olives, tahini, 2 beers and water came to just 15€.


We finished our day out with a coffee stop at a place that I am a bit ambivalent about. Green Valley Waterfall Cafe is on the road from Lemesos up to Troodos, in Trimiklini. It has a large open patio space with tables, as well as a covered area, and, what makes it special, a lovingly made path down to some waterfalls absolutely full of plants and animals. I wrote about it here.

I thoroughly recommend spending the 5€ entrance fee to drink your coffee or have a picnic down at these waterfalls. What I don't recommend, however, is sitting with your (female?) dog in the cafe itself. The owner has two small but rather aggressive female dogs that have tried pretty hard to attack Sage on two occasions now. I understand the territory issue, but I was annoyed that I could not enjoy my coffee without fear of being attacked. If you have your dog with you, just head on down to the waterfalls for a more relaxing, peaceful experience.

Green Valley Falls Cafe, Trimiklini

Green Valley Falls, Trimiklini

There is so much to explore in this area and it provides a very welcome break from the heat and bustle of the coast. Your dog will love it too.

More venues for watching the World Cup...with your dog

Games are projected onto the wall of the bar in the evenings

Trying to watch the games while out and about in Larnaca with my large dog has been a challenge. We have found a couple of favourites, and it has motivated me to try out a few different places that I had noticed but hadn't got around to. We have also been turned away from quite a few!


While trying to catch Germany vs Portugal last week, the bar I had planned to go to was closed, the game begun, we were turned away from several places, and I was feeling hot and bothered trying to watch on a distant screen from outside a popular coffee shop... when I heard the commentary from the neighbouring rooftop cafe bar Le Jardin, and decided to give it a go.

Le Jardin Cafe Bar

Le Jardin Cafe Bar is on Grigori Afxentiou Street, which ends at Larnaca Police Station, opposite from the Easy Hotel.


I had noticed this bar on previous trips to town, and thought it looked nice from the outside, but had not expected them to accept dogs and therefore put off giving it a go.


Le Jardin is beautifully decorated with lots of plants, comfortable sofas, inviting lighting. Everyone in there was immediately very friendly and gave Sage a lot of attention. There was another group already there with their dog, a friendly Pomeranian who seemed like quite a regular there.

The match was showing in the early evening, and as it started to get dark I was half distracted from the tvs by the hundreds of swallows diving around the skies around the rooftop bar, as well as by the changing colours from the setting sun. Despite being situated on a main, busy road, as soon as you climb the stairs up to the bar, it is very easy to forget you in the middle of town.

From Sage's point of view, it was nice to get so much attention, but there wasn't much space for her to stretch out as the bar is quite small and narrow. Especially once it got dark, I was quite anxious that someone would step on her as I couldn't really find a corner to hide her away.


From the football point of view, this was a lovely place to watch the game. There were 2 tv screens in the early evening, and as it got dark they projected the screen onto the white wall at one end of the bar so it was even easier to get a good view.

The bar serves cocktails and bottles of beer, as well as sandwiches and wraps. I paid a fairly standard €3 for a coffee.

On their FB page you can find information on the upcoming games, as well as music events and info on the menu:

https://www.facebook.com/lejardinlarnaka

Le Jardin is a beautifully decorated bar, with a lovely relaxed atmosphere. Simply because of its size and lay out, I might advise taking a large dog somewhere where there is a bit more space, although it's great to have more options, particularly when they are as nice as this one. 

Watch the World Cup... with your dog

Watching Mexico vs Cameroon at The Depot

Recently my criteria for choosing a bar to go to in Cyprus just became a little bit harder. Sage just loves football, so at the moment I'm looking for places that not only accept pets, but that are also showing the World Cup. I'm on the look out for dog-friendly bars with garden or terrace areas, and screens outside. Extra points goes to bars with good cheap food, friendly service, and wide range of drinks, of course.

The Depot

We have tried out a couple in the last few days, and our current favourite is The Depot, which is on the beach road just beyond the Fortress at Finikoudes (in the direction of Macenzie Beach). This bar/grill is in a lovely location, especially now work has finished on the walkway by the sea here. If you are not a football fan, you could happily spend your time looking out over the water, and people watching. This 'promenade' was also quite good for a halftime walk with Sage!

Walkway by the sea beyond the Fortress at Finikoudes

Staff at The Depot were very friendly to us, petting Sage, and offering to bring her water. There was plenty of space for Sage to sit out of the way of the other customers, while we still had a good view of the (3!!!) large screens showing the World Cup. 

Drinks were fairly cheap here, about 2.5€ for a large Carlsberg/Keo beer, 2-3€ for a coffee. We also ordered some amazing homemade chips and grilled vegetable wrap, and both dishes cost under 5€.

Terrace area of The Depot

Attention to detail is visible in the decoration both inside and out at The Depot. I loved the use of the breeze blocks from the wall as plant pots and the strange lamps from recycled wine bottles. The large central bar inside also fits well with the style and shape of the building.

The Depot in the evening

So, whether or not you want to see the games, I recommend this bar for food or drinks, with your dog. 

Find them on FB here

Dinner at Sea Crest Restaurant, Latchi...with your dog

10/10 for Sage's "Poor me, I'm so hungry" face

While on our 'Spring break' in Latchi this year, we tried out a couple of the local tavernas and restaurants, with the usual criteria: 1) how's the food, and  2) can I bring my dog along?

As it was early in the year, mid April, not all the places were open, and some had only a very limited menu. The Sea Crest Restaurant, by the small harbour area, was one of the few places still open during the evening. As we approached I felt the owner and staff nervously eyeing up our big dog.

Outdoors seating area at Sea Crest Restaurant

Once we said we were happy to sit outside they were extremely friendly and helpful, although I did gather that dogs would definitely not be welcome inside the restaurant (fair enough).


It was a  bit cold, and we had to keep our coats on while eating - but there are very few months in Cyprus where it's too cold to sit outside of an evening. I also really enjoyed sitting by the water and looking at the boats; to me it only feels like a holiday if you can sit out by the sea and eat fish.

View of small harbour from the Sea Crest Restaurant

We had octopus and small fried (whitebait-type) fish, salad, wine, and paid around 15€ per person, which seems a fairly typical price for the more touristy areas of Cyprus.


The owner turned out to be very friendly, and quite an animal-lover himself. He gave Sage quite a lot of attention, and brought out a plate of bones for her (so absolutely no reason for the "I'm so hungry" face in the first picture!


Here is their FB page: https://www.facebook.com/SeaCrestRestaurantLatchi where you can see some customer reviews, menus and events

Sandwich and a view, Koulla's Sandwiches ...with your dog

Koulla's Sandwiches Cantina

We just had a short break in West Cyprus. Just the 3 of us. It was wonderful, and I'm looking forward to posting about the apartment we stayed in, the lovely hikes we went on, the beaches....

But for now, I've decided to tell you about a sandwich place we found. Because this wasn't just any old sandwich place. I think this is one of the best places to sit with a beer (and a sandwich) and enjoy the view that we have found, so far, in Cyprus.

View from Koulla's Sandwiches

I mean, look at this place!

This is Koulla's Sandwiches, just outside the village of Pomos in the West of Cyprus (on Facebook here).

I loved this place because it was perfectly simple; just a kind of 'burger van', with a couple of shady tables, a more sheltered space for the winter, bathroom, just what you need for a quick stop along the road. But, on the other hand,  perched high up on top of a beautiful patch of unspoilt coast, on a quiet part of the road with a back drop of mountains, it had just what you need to happily pass the hours with a beer or two.

Another reason I liked this place was that we had just tried to go to a beach bar a bit further on, towards Latchi, and been put off by prominent 'No Dogs' signs pinned up by the entrance. Of course I understand that not everybody is as dog-obsessed as I am, and some people don't want dogs inside bars and restaurants, but I don't see the problem on an outside patio in a low-key beach bar... 

Anyway. I was pleased to be able to sit somewhere beautiful, with my girl, and enjoy being near the sea and on holiday.   

Koulla's Sandwiches, as you might have guessed, serves a range of sandwiches, with fillings like halloumi, egg, chicken etc. They are large, filling, and cost less than 5€.

More wintery walks... with your dog

It would be irresponsible of me to recommend dog owners take their dogs to Finikoudes (Palm Beach) in Larnaca, as there as signposts clearly forbidding dogs on this beach (and almost every beach in Cyprus).
But, when I see the beach looking like this.....

Finikoudes Beach in January

... I feel I can let my girl have a run around without bothering anyone

Do be careful walking your dogs here, I have heard of outrageous fines for having dogs on the beach in Cyprus. Still, from November until about April, once all the sun loungers have been collected up, the umbrellas packed away, the kiosks have been locked down, then the beach is perfect for chasing after tennis balls and running around on the sand!

If there are too many people around - too many interesting new smells and sounds - I  can't relax and enjoy our walk, so I avoided this beach with Sage during the summer.  Although I did see quite a few dog walkers here even in June-July.  Just now, in January-February however, it's great for a lunchtime run around. The path has been extended beyond the fortress towards Mackenzie Beach now, meaning you could do a long walk along the coast, all the way from Larnaca marina to Mackenzie.

Path extended beyond the Fortress around to
Mackenzie Beach

If you're looking for somewhere to stop for a warming drink around the seafront here, we have been welcomed by several of the bar owners in this area (see previous post, drinking in Larnaca: http://bit.ly/1hVWPBg)

One of our favourites, however, at least for this time of year, is the Finis Beach Bar. Again, I avoid this place in summer with Sage, as it is located right on the sand. During winter though, it's great to walk down for a drink at the beach bar (open until about 5-6 in the evening) and watch the sea. Staff have always been super friendly to us and Sage, even bringing her water (unasked for) last time, and stopping to pet her.

It can get a bit cold at the Beach Bar, we have always sat outside when we are there with Sage, but you can buy a range of teas, coffees, or hot chocolate to warm you on the inside.

Enjoy the mountain village of Panagia... with your dog

Along the main road through the village of Panagia

I chose the village of Panagia for a weekend break due to its location up in the hills north of Paphos, a short drive from Cedar Valley and the Kykkos Monastery, which I wanted to visit. Searching the usual sites for eco-tourism apartments  (https://www.agrotourism.com.cy) I found at least 2 dog-friendly apartments, both of which looked beautiful.

Palati Apartments

We stayed in the Palati Apartments (see previous post http://bit.ly/HrVe9Y) which I fully recommend. Another eco-tourism option at Panagia, the Archontiko tou Meletiou, was fully booked for the period (see the CTO website for contact details and information http://bit.ly/1cJvC2X). I did contact the owners of Archontiko tou Meletiou, however, and they told me that dogs are permitted in their accommodation.

Archontiko tou Meletiou Apartments

Panagia is the birthplace of Archbishop Makarios III, and you can visit his childhood home (next door to the Archontiko Apartments). It was closed when we passed by.

There is not much to do in this village, except sit in one of the many small kafeneia and watch the world go by, or try some of the wine that this region is famous for. When we were there, in late October, there were few people around, and bars and tavernas closed early in the evenings. 

In the restaurant area of the Oniro Hotel

One evening, we tried the restaurant of the only place that was open past 8 in the evening - the Oniro (dream) Hotel. This hotel is located towards the edge of the village beyond the Museum of Cultural Foundation (which houses personal objects and photographs that belonged to Archbishop Makarios III).

I must admit that on a cold autumnal evening, this place seemed a bit dreary. We were the only customers. The huge tv, set on an endless Greek news channel, dominated the restaurant. Very little of the menu was available. And the whole place was lit with strong artificial lighting.

On the other hand, the owners and serving staff were extremely friendly to us and had no problem with us bringing Sage inside while we ate dinner. They explained that they didn't prepare much food in the evenings as there were so few customers, and made a big effort to bring us whatever they could, including some oranges they picked themselves from the gardens. I can't really recommend this place for style or atmosphere, at least for the autumn/winter period, but I can recommend them for their hospitality and for allowing our large dog inside on a cold evening.

Oniro Hotel

This village is a lovely base for exploring Western Cyprus. We spend one long day driving around Cedar Valley and the Western Troodos mountains (see earlier post:  http://bit.ly/1fofsfX), and another long day around Paphos and the coast.

There is so much to see in this area and it's great to have a quiet, mountain base to relax in at the end of a day's exploring.

Finally, there are a couple of mini-markets for provisions in Panagia, and plenty of short dog-walks in and around the village. 

For more info: http://panagiavillage.chooseyourcyprus.com/en/

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Warm up with a hot chocolate at Antica Gelateria del Corso... with your dog

Sunset from Ayia Napa harbour

I haven't spent much time in Ayia Napa. I just thought it would be too busy in the summer to enjoy a day out there with my dog. But on a recent trip with some friends who live close by there, I realised I have been missing out on some nice walks and dog-friendly cafe-bars.

We were there in December and the scenery was lovely. We walked around the small harbour, then back along the wooden path by the sea in the direction of Sandy Bay. Sage had a run around and I collected wild sea fennel that was growing on the rocks (I'm not sure when is the best time of year to collect this, but this part of Cyprus is great for sea fennel!)

There were a few people out walking, but not too many to feel like we were in the way with our dog.

Harbour at Ayia Napa

As the sun set and it got colder, we went to warm up in the Antica Gelateria del Corso Cafe-Bar. The staff were very friendly and accommodating, and had no problem with us sitting with Sage in the area of the cafe that is protected by an awning. The other customers there were also very friendly, and enjoyed playing with her!

They serve all sorts of drinks and huge range of desserts and ice creams. Their hot chocolate is especially good after a cold winters walk with your dog!

In the Antica Gelateria del Corso

Antica Gelateria del Corso

Now I'd like to go back and try out other bars and a taverna or two in the area, to see if I can find dog-friendly places before the summer crowds arrive!

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A romantic winter break... with your dog

Enjoying the fireplace in our room at Linos Inn, Kakopetria

A week or so back we went for a weekend away at the dog-friendly Linos Inn at Kakopetria. Sage came too, of course.

Linos Inn allows dogs in 4 or 5 of their rooms, while the rest of the rooms are kept dog free. Dog-friendly rooms are slightly separate from the central part of the hotel (with reception, dining room etc), so that non-dog-loving guests are not disturbed. In addition, these rooms are decorated with furry friends in mind - there are no rugs/carpets on the floors, furnishings are kept to a minimum, rooms have access to small external courtyards or balconies.

Linos Inn

Rooms at the Linos Inn are a bit fancier than the typical agro-tourism style places I am used to, but there wasn't actually a big difference in price (around 100€ per night for double room). Anyway, it's nice to treat yourself, and your dog, to a bit of 'luxury accommodation' every now and then.

While I was looking for a hotel or apartment, I had the following criteria in mind:  winter break in a mountain village; cosy and romantic; dogs allowed too.
Linos Inn is located just above the village square in Kakopetria, up in the Troodos mountains. You can choose from a variety of rooms, with or without fire places, with single/double jacuzzi, with/without mountain views etc. It is dog-friendly.

So, ticked all the boxes really.

Dog-friendly bedroom at Linos Inn

Bathroom at Linos Inn

Small courtyard outside room 

Bedroom/sitting room at Linos Inn

A full breakfast of cereal, bacon and eggs, bread and cheese etc. is included in the price. On Friday and Saturday evenings there is live music in the hotel restaurant, and we were advised to book a table as it's a popular restaurant, not just with people staying at the hotel. The food was good, especially the lovely homemade ravioli!

I really enjoyed wandering around the village of Kakopetria too. Many of the houses along the smaller, back roads of the village preserve the traditional Cypriot architectural style, with mud-brick walls and wooden balconies almost touching across the narrow streets. In the evenings, the smell of wood fires really added to the wintery atmosphere.

The village of Kakopetria

Christmas lights at the square in Kakopetria

Just down the road from the Linos Inn, we found some steps down to the river by the Mill Hotel. Pets are not allowed at this hotel. I imagine it would be crowded there by the river during the summer, but when we were there, in mid December, there was nobody around. This was a great place to take Sage for a quick run around, away from traffic. There are also lots of great trails nearby for hiking with your dog, and you can even ski there (at Chionistra) for a few months in winter.

The river by the Mill Hotel

By the Mill Hotel

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