Monday, 10 June 2013

Periptero H Mesaoria, Pyrga... with your dog

Periptero H Mesaoria, Pyrga (Cafe "In between the mountains", Pyrga)

We stopped at such a lovely little cafe yesterday, at the entrance to the village of Pyrga, in the Larnaca district. The name means "in between the mountains", which is the name of the large plain between Morfou and Famagusta through the centre of the island.

For directions click here:,Pyrga,+Cyprus&ei=XsS1UanoF4Sw4QSK_4DABw&ved=0CJEBELYD

Google Map of area of Pyrga and Kornos, Larnaca district
The cafe was extremely basic, with a few plastic tables set out beneath a huge, dazzling pink bourgainvillea. Sitting in the shade, playing tavli (backgammon), were a few of the local men of the village. There were flowers in pots all through the small, shady garden, which backed onto a small woodland area full of pine trees. This place really reminded me of some of the hidden away cafes and tavernas I have discovered in Crete.

We only had a beer, so I can't say anything about the menu. A board at the entrance mentioned sandwiches, souvlaki, and meat cooked in the oven - but there was no sign of this while we were there.  Although there was an amazing old oven in the garden.
Traditional wood oven 
The woman serving us was so sweet about Sage. She was anxious to make sure Sage had enough water, and asked all sorts of questions - she was really welcoming and friendly.

I think Sage enjoyed it too - all sorts of interesting smells from the garden and the woods, cats prowling around, some shade to relax in, and lots of attention from everyone there.

In the area:  We had just been hiking around the area of Stavrovouni, a 4th century monastery with fantastic views of the Mesaoria below (more about that in the next post). An alternative day out would be to explore the pottery village of Kornos, although when we drove through yesterday we didn't find anything open. In the village of Pyrga itself is the beautiful church of St Marina, founded in the 12th century, as well as the Royal Chapel (14th century, dedicated to St Catherine). There are some amazing wall paintings surviving in both. For the Royal Chapel see:

I suppose hiking up to the monastery, which is on the E4 route, is more dog-friendly fun than admiring churches, but it's a question of compromise, right?

In the cafe garden 

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